Washer Repair: Front-Load & Top-Load

Washing machine problems we repair

We work on front-load, top-load (agitator and impeller) and stacked laundry centers from most major brands such as Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE and Bosch.

Won't drain

Standing water after a cycle usually means a blockage or a failed drain pump. On many front-loaders there's a small coin trap or pump filter behind a panel at the bottom front, and socks, coins, hair ties and bra wires end up there. A kinked drain hose or a clogged standpipe can also be the cause. If the pump hums but no water moves, it's usually jammed or failing.

Won't spin, or clothes come out soaking wet

Common causes include a faulty lid switch or door lock, a worn drive belt, a broken motor coupler, worn shocks or suspension, or a drainage problem, since many washers won't spin until the water is gone. An unbalanced load (one heavy blanket or a pile of towels on one side) can also stop the spin.

Leaking

We trace leaks to the source: a torn front-loader door boot, loose or cracked fill hoses, a leaking pump, a cracked tub or a failing water inlet valve. Leaks from a second-floor laundry room can damage the ceiling below, so turn off the water supply valves behind the washer until it's fixed.

Shaking, banging or walking

Check that the washer is level and that all four feet touch the floor firmly. On a new washer, make sure the shipping bolts were removed. They lock the drum for transport and cause violent shaking if left in. If the machine still bangs, the shocks, springs or suspension rods are usually worn.

Error codes and won't start

Error codes point us in the right direction, but they aren't always the whole story. A drain error can be a clogged filter or a failed pump, and a door lock error can be a latch, a wire or a control board. Write down the code before you reset the machine.

Front-loader smell and Houston humidity

Front-load washers seal tightly, and in Houston's humidity the moisture left inside after a wash has nowhere to go. That leads to the musty odor and black spots in the door gasket that front-loader owners know well. To prevent it:

• Leave the door and the detergent drawer open between loads so the drum dries out.
• Wipe the folds of the rubber door gasket, especially the bottom, every week or two.
• Use HE detergent and measure it. Too much detergent leaves residue that feeds odor.
• Run the washer's cleaning or "tub clean" cycle monthly, following the manual.
• Clean the pump filter every few months if your model has one.

Hard water and your washer

Much of the Katy and Fort Bend County area has hard water. Minerals combine with detergent to leave buildup in dispensers and on internal parts, and washers with internal water heaters can collect scale on the heating element. Periodic cleaning cycles and the right amount of detergent go a long way.

Replace your fill hoses

Rubber washer fill hoses become brittle over time and can burst under household water pressure, which can release a lot of water fast. Look for bulges, cracks or rust at the fittings. Many homeowners switch to braided stainless steel hoses. It's a small part that prevents big water damage.

Before you call

• Make sure the washer is plugged in and the breaker hasn't tripped.
• Confirm both water valves behind the washer are fully open.
• On a front-loader, check that the door clicks shut; on a top-loader, that the lid closes fully.
• Note any error code and when the problem happens (fill, wash, drain or spin).

Most washer repairs, like pumps, belts, door locks, lid switches, shocks, couplers and inlet valves, are well worth doing. We will tell you if a repair doesn't make sense for the age of your machine. Pair your washer repair with a dryer check or a maintenance visit, or see installation if you're getting a new machine.